Origins before 1500.

Three or four principal phases in Mombasa’s development-possibly even three quite different cities-are distinguishable. The first is associated with a queen, Mwana Mkisi, whose city was known as Kongowea, sometimes called Gongwa. The second phase is associated with the Shirazi dynasty founded by the Shehe Mvita, whose name was thereafter applied to the city. The third and last precolonial phase was shared out amongst Portuguese governors and a new Shirazi dynasty from Malindi; a local Omani dynasty, the Mazrui; and a foreign Omani dynasty ruling from Zanzibar, the Busaidi. During this period the city became known as Mombasa, though use of the term 'Mvita' has only now begun to die out in the city itself. The last of these phases is the one in which the Thenashara Taifa came into existence, an existence becoming gradually more tenuous in the post-colonial era, which, together with the colonial period, might be regarded as the city's fourth or 'modern' phase.

 

Evidence for the pre-Shirazi dynasty represented by Mwana Mkisi consists of fragments of tradition and literary references. The oldest known mention of Kongowea and its queen is found in a poem by Mombasa's most famous Swahili poet, Bwana Muyaka bin Mwinyi Haji, who lived during the first half of the nineteenth century. A short manuscript history written in 1914 by a member of the Taifa Bajuni, Mbwana bin Mbwarafundi al-Bauri, elaborates on Bwana Muyaka's work, explaining that Shehe Mvita, a foreigner who 'came from the Shirazi towns', settled in Kongowea after being refused permission to live in cities to the north of it. According to Mbwana bin Mbwarafundi, Shehe Mvita was 'given' the city by the Sultan of Mtwapa, a town a short distance up the coast. Previously it had belonged to Mwana Mkisi. Mbwana bin Mbwarafundi's tradition is reiterated in another unpublished manuscript, Khabari ya Ngozi, which appears to have been in possession of the late William Hichens, translator of the Lamu Chronicle. The bare memory of Mwana Mkisi and her town of Kongowea survives to this day among Mombasa Swahili, probably because it has been immortalized by the often-quoted poetry of Bwana Muyaka. Old men in the Mji wa Kale or Old Town, however, can point out her town's traditional location in Mtaa (Quarter) Mzizima, somewhat to the north of the present Old Town, and beyond the bridge joining the island to the Kisauni-Nyali mainland.

 

Traditions relating to the Shirazi dynasty and to its founder are not very much more informative. One, collected by J. L. Krapf at some time during the I840s, treats Shehe Mvita as first occupant of the island and ignores Kongowea altogether. The Mombasa Chronicle (ca. 1824) has little to say about the dynasty, simply remarking that it was Shirazi and that the last of its sheikhs was named Shehe bin Misham. This Shirazi dynasty has none the less left an indelible imprint on the consciousness of the Mombasa Swahili. Shehe Mvita, rather than Mwana Mkisi, is regarded by them as the founder of their community. His grave has long been the object of an annual Solar New Year's Day (Siku ya Mwaka) pilgrimage and ceremony, which is still performed, though its observance is no longer the great event it was formerly. The most detailed traditional information is supplied by the Mbwana bin Mbwarafundi and the Hichens manuscripts, which describe the first Shirazi sheikh's progress down the coast and his occupation of Mombasa Island with the aid of the ruler of Mtwapa. Mbwana bin Mbwarafundi viewed the event as involving actual deposition of Queen Mwana Mkisi by the Sheikh of Mtwapa; conceivably this bit of detail can be read as an alliance between two Shirazi dynasts against a non-Shirazi principality during the early days of Shirazi southern expansion along the coast. Mbwana bin Mbwarafundi's reference to Shehe Mvita as coming from 'the Shirazi towns' (and not direct from Shiraz in Persia) lends credibility to this view. Other traditions of origin common to Mombasa Swahili, notably those of the Kilindini of the Thelatha Taifa (=three tribes) and the Jomvu of the Tisa Taifa (=nine tribes), make reference to having lived earlier at Shungwaya, identified with Bur Gao in southern Somalia. Likewise the Umbwi clan of the Tangana (Thelatha Taifa) reportedly came from a town near Kismayu. None of these mataifa are associated with Shehe Mvita's clan, but most are reputed to have Shirazi elements in them, and a common Somali coast origin may be of some significance.

Taken from: Swahili origins: Swahili culture and the Shungwaya phenomenon by Allen, James de Vere 1993

 

Mombasa had the advantage of an infinitely better harbour, and at some stage it began to supplant Malindi as the leading international port on the coast. It seems probable that rivalry between the two began under Mombasa's 'Shirazi' (i.e. first Muslim) dynasty. The dynasty was founded by one Shehe Mvita with the help of a ruler of Mtwapa (on the small creek a few miles north of Mombasa). Shehe Mvita ousted an earlier dynasty associated with a queen, Mwana Mkisi of Gongwa (perhaps the modem Kongowea, though this is now on the mainland). Until recently the date of Shehe Mvita's accession to power was guessed on the basis of such slender evidence as the style of his alleged tomb, at which certain annual Siku ya Mwaka or Solar New Year rituals are still performed. (1)

 

In 1976 Hamo Sassoon carried out excavations at the Coast General Hospital site and concluded that Mwana Mkisi's would have been a pre-Muslim regime and that Shehe Mvita would have established himself between c. 1150 (when al-Idrisi reported that there were no Muslim regimes south of Barawa) and c. 1330, when Ibn Battuta describes the settlement's mosques. He probably took power during the twelfth century. This timetable fits well enough our conclusion that Islam became a majority religion all along the Swahili coast only in the period c.1050 to 1200; and the additional facts that Shehe Mvita is remembered as 'founding' the settlement rather than Mwana Mkisi, and that his supposed tomb is the site of a typically Shirazi Muslim ritual which is often associated with founding or 'founding' lineages, tend to confirm his hypothesis.

 

Shehe Mvita would have originated somewhere near Shungwaya Shirazi in the Lamu region, and would have been one of the many Muslims to move southwards bearing the new religion. But he does not seem to have been one of the original, coin-striking 'Shirazi' group, and traditions also relate that he was 'refused permission' to live in settlements further north, eventually winning Mombasa only with the Mtwapa ruler's aid. (2)

 

(1) An unmarked grave in the grounds of the Alladina Visram school is said to be that of Shehe Mvita; founder of the Shirazi dynasty in Mombasa. The last of whom was Shehe (=Sese) ibn Masham deposed by the Portuguese In the late 16th century.

(2) Shehe Mvita as-Shiraz had tried to make settlement at Malindi, Gedi, Shaka, Mwatamu, Mwatapo and Kilifi, but was repulsed by earlier settlers. (Khabari ya Ngozi; by Juma bin Raschid.)

Mombasa Chronicle (Arabic version)

------------------------------------

 

Taken from : Documents sur l'histoire, la géographie et le commerce de l'Afrique ... By Charles GUILLAIN

 

P614

In the name of God, the forgiving and merciful.

It is from him that I ask for help.

Praise be to God, master of both worlds. Blessings and peace on our Lord; Muhammad, the last of the prophets.

 

Now this is the story of the ancient times of Mombasa and what happened there between the Arabs of Oman, the Portuguese and the Swahili who inhabited it. We have learned from those whose story inspires us with confidence and on whose word we can rely, that the last of the Shirazi sheikhs who governed the people of Mombasa was Shahat ibn Masham (1), the same as we still called Shahat or Mu-Mvita (1). Afterwards, the sheikhs were taken from among the Malindi. The Portuguese arrived in Mombasa at the time of Shahat-ibn-Masham (1) and brought ready-cut stones from Reinou (2) to Mombasa, where they built the fortress which still exists, and garrisoned it by subjugating the inhabitants

 

(1) Shahat-ibn-Masham: the last Shirazi sheikh to rule Mombasa and the last Medieval one as during his time in office the Portuguese arrived. His name is translated and written in many ways. Nothing more is known of him.

(2) Reinou: the Kingdom = Portugal.

 

P615

of Mombasa. The Swahili then saw their power disappear; injustice and the law of the strongest appeared afterwards. However, they could not bear this harsh position and formed the plan of going to Oman, near Imam Sultan-ibn-Saif (1), head of the Jarebite family (2) and of Oman. Arriving near him, they complained of the iron yoke and the injustice that the Portuguese placed on them, and of the bad actions of all kinds that they committed in Mombasa. The Imam then gathered troops to wage war there against the Portuguese, and waged war on them for five years, until he had forced them to evacuate the fort. He then took possession of it and left Muhammad-ibn-Mubarak as governor. But the Portuguese in turn gathered troops, which they led to Mombasa to fight the Arabs there; they forced them to leave the fort, and authority and power returned to their hands. With them again unjust force and evil deeds reappeared. They subjected the inhabitants of the city to all kinds of abuses, and they even sentenced some to death for having gone to Oman to ask for help from the Imam. The Swahili could no longer remain in the country under such a regime, and they gathered in council. In this meeting, it was decided that we would send to the Imam of Oman; this one was then called Saif-ibn-Sultan al Jarebi al Amani (3). The deputies of Mombasa once again brought to this sovereign the complaints of their compatriots against the Portuguese, and the iniquitous way in which they administered the country. The Imam formed an army to fight them. And he fought against them, and he conquered them, for God helped him; and he drove them from the fort, leaving Nasir-ibn-Abdullah al Mazrui (4) as governor. Now there were, in this fort, as garrison, servants of the Imam who began to desire something and to rise up against the order of the master. They formed a council and resolved to strangle Governor Nasir-ibn-Abdullah, and to put their leader Sese Rumbi in his place. They, in fact, put this project into execution and appointed the aforementioned Sese Rumbi governor, sending to warn the people of Mombasa of this. The Swahili made them respond that they would not submit

 

(1) Sultan-ibn-Saif: (R1649-1679) During his reign the Portuguese protectorate ended with their expulsion on 28 January 1650.

(2) Yaruba dynasty (R1624–1749)

(3) Saif-ibn-Sultan (R1692-1711)

(4) Nasir-ibn-Abdullah al Mazrui: first Liwali; He must have arrived in Mombasa around AH 1110 (AD 1698).

 

p616

ever to a man who exercised illegitimate authority, and who had to leave the fortress. The rebels response was that, if the sun and the moon came down from the sky, they too would come down from the fort. The Swahili therefore made war against them; their leaders were, at that time, Sheikh ibn Ahmad al Malindi (1), Muallim-Ndao ibn Mwishafi, Mwinyi Nguti ibn Mwanzagu and Mwinyi Muli ibn Haji. In the meantime, God sent the Portuguese to them. And here is the cause. A man from Pate (2), known as Mwinyi Ahmad-ibn-Kibai, had had disagreements with the Sultan of Pate, Bwana Tamo-Mkuu. He went to Mozambique asking for Portuguese to go to war in Pate; he found some, and they arrived at Pate with four ships. As soon as they arrived, Mwinyi Ahmad-ibn-Kibai sent to warn the sultan that he was returning to fight him; to which Sultan Bwana Tamo-Mkuu responded: “Is there no way to reconcile us? We have, after all, no interest in bringing war to our own country. » Mwinyi Ahmad gave in to these words of peace, and reconciliation took place. “But,” he said to the sultan, “what will you do with the Portuguese whom I have brought from their country to wage war? » The sultan then said to him: “The people of Mombasa are fighting with their governor, and Nasir -ibn-Abdullah has been put in irons; let's send the Portuguese there; They will conquer Mombasa, and we will thus drive them out of our homes. » Mwinyi Ahmad found this advice from the Sultan good, and the latter, after gathering a few troops, left for Mombasa with the four ships and seventy muTaifia (boats from the coast), which were manned by Bajuni (3) inhabiting the land north of Pate. On their arrival, they entered on the side of Kilindini, and agreed with the people of Mombasa to fight Sese Rumbi and chase him from the fort; then they sent him a deputation to summon him to leave and deliver him to the Portuguese. He left without a fight, and the Portuguese still found themselves masters of the people of Mombasa and possessors of the fort. The Sultan of Pate then took leave of them, saying: “I am returning to Pate, but recommend that you make the Mombasians suffer and make them work like slaves.”

 

(1) Sheikh ibn Ahmad al Malindi: this Sheikh is a descendant of the Malindi Sultans who took over Mombasa (with Portuguese help) in the early years of Portuguese dominance.

(2) Pate; a Swahili town in N-Kenya.

(3) Bajuni: Swahili tribe living on the islands of S-Somalia.

 

p617

The sultan returned, in fact, to Pate, and the Portuguese followed his advice and made the population endure all kinds of evils; injustices reappeared and the sheikhs were forced to work, and especially their Sheikh ibn Ahmad al Malindi; they brought an unfortunate fate to the Muslims; They entered houses, chased away the owners and then raped the women, to the point that all of Mombasa fell into a pitiful state. Unable to bear this situation, they resolved to make war on the Portuguese, held council, and then went to find them. “We have heard,” they said, “that the Imam of Oman is gathering an army to come and besiege you; what do you think you'll do? — And you, they were told, what do you say about it? - We, said the Swahili, we think that you must distribute the rice in straw that you have to the inhabitants, so that they pound it, and in such a way that there is no more left in the fort, and that we make it white and crushed. » This advice was accepted, and all the rice straw that was in the fort was distributed to the inhabitants of the city, in order to be pounded; only very few remained. But the Mombasians did not return the rice, and any individual who had received any quantity of it for pounding kept it after the operation was done. Finally the day of the Portuguese festival arrived, and everyone left the fort, with the exception of a very small number, who remained there. They were surrounded by the Swahili, who slit their throats, and strangled the sultan's son (probably the son of the Portuguese governor). War broke out, and the Portuguese soon found themselves reduced to an unfortunate position. Then the sultan's son sent to his father, and made him say: “Make peace with Mombasa and return the fort, otherwise they will not be merciful to me, and I am dead. » Peace was therefore concluded between the two parties; the Portuguese were guaranteed the safety of their person, and they were transported to Mozambique with their ships and their belongings. Mombasa then remained without a governor; as for the servants of the Imam who had strangled Nasir-ibn-Abdullah and appointed their leader Sese Rumbi in his place, they had been, on the arrival of the Portuguese, imprisoned and put in irons; but later they were allowed to go wherever they wanted:

 

p618

However, they sent their leader, Sese Rumbi, to Mozambique, where he remained until his death. For Nasir-ibn-Abdullah, he was released and returned to Oman. Following these events, the people of Mombasa took the keys of the fort and placed a man from each tribe in charge of guarding what it contained; then they went to Oman to find the Imam. The principal deputies were Sheikh-ibn-Ahmad al Malindi, Mwinyi Nguti ibn Mwanzagu al Kilindini; Mwishahali ibn Ndao al-Tangani (1). All the other Mombasian tribes and all the Nyika (2) towns also sent a deputy; those of the Nyika were Mayani, from Mtawe (3); Maymak, from Tiwi (4); the other cities which sent were WaRibe (5), WaChonyi (6), Wakamba (7), WaKauma (8), WaJibana (9), WaRabai (10), WaGiryama (11), WaDuruma (12), WaMtwapa (13), WaShamba (14), WaLungu (15), WaDigo (16). They all went to Oman to find Imam Saif-ibn-Sultan al Jarubi (17), and to inform him of their current position vis-a-vis the Portuguese and the war that had taken place between them. The Imam sent troops on three ships named Kabras, Malaki, and Falaki, and named Muhammad-ibn-Said al Ma’miri as governor. All the wealth and effects contained in the fort were distributed to the inhabitants, with the exception of powder, lead and copper. Then Muhammad-ibn-Said was replaced from Oman by Salih-ibn-Muhammad al Hadrami. The latter committed abuses in his government and abused his power towards some inhabitants. Complaint was made to the Imam, who ordered them to seize and strangle him, which was done; he was kept like this for a while, then, by all accounts, he was released. But, as soon as he had recovered, he began to make war on Sheikh-ibn-Ahmad al Malindi and the Wa-Kilindini, who could not stay any longer in Mombasa, and who took refuge with the Nyika out of fear of Salih, who was strongly supported by the Mombasa against Ahmad and the people of Kilindini. Before the war broke out, Sheikh ibn Ahmad had sent his son Mwinyi Kombo to the Imam, and the Imam had given him money and cloth as a gift. When he returned to Mombasa, unaware of the hostilities that existed, he fell into the hands of Salih with all his wealth. As soon as Sheikh ibn Ahmad learned of the arrival

 

(1) Mwishahali ibn Ndao al-Tangani: Tanga is a town on the N-Tanzanian coast.

(2) Nyika the bushland of East African mainland.

(3) Mtawe :Mtuapa stream in Mombasa Bay

(4) Tiwi: 15km N of Mombasa

(5) Wa-Ribe. - Today only a couple hundred people, who have their kaya (place of deliberations where the elders used to meet) near Rabai. Today the name is pronounced Wa-Rive or even: Wa-Rihe

(6) Wa-Chonyi. - today a small tribe allied with the Wa-Giryam.

(7) Wa-Kamba. - This tribe is today in the territory South of Nairobi up to Sabaki, mainly; but other nuclei are scattered elsewhere and some villages are not far from Rabai in the vicinity of the coast.

(8) WaKauma: Cerulli:  were the superior of all the Nyika tribes, the chief of Kauma residing in Changombe a small town near Rabai.

(9) Wa-Jibana. - The rather small group is not far from the Wa-Ribes, a little NW of them. The name is now pronounced: Wa-Dzivana or also: Wa-Dzihana. Their kaya is between that of the Wa-Chonyi and that of the Wa-Ribe.

(10) WaRabai, is the village near Mombasa formerly the headquarters of the Krapf protestant mission

(11) Wa-Giryama. – It is remarkable tribe of importance even today. They live north of Mombasa from Kilifi to the Sabaki valley.

(12) WaDuruma is a settlement in Kenya's Kwale County. Mombasa is the closest mayor town.

(13) WaMtwapa today called Mtwapa, immediately North of Mombasa.

(14) Wa-Shamba: Wa-Shambala are today, also in Tanganyika in the Usambara region. (They are considered traditional opponents of the Digo).

(15) Wa-Lungo.  Wa-Lungo live today at the lower end of Lake Tanganyika.

(16) Wa-Digo. - They are found today in Tanzania, near Tanga, southwest of the Umba river. Some of their villages remained in the Shimba hills, south of Mombasa; but the bulk of the Wa-Digo is in Tanzania. (They are also in Tiwi, 15 miles S. of Mombasa.)

(17) Saif-ibn-Sultan (R1692-1711)

 

p619

of his son and how he had fallen into the hands of Salih, he could not enjoy any rest nor wait any longer to see him, and he went to find Salih. The latter received him very well, giving him honor and respect, and giving him the right of command and free action in the fort. But it was all treason. At that time, there was no food supply in the fort, and the governor left for Pemba to get some. When leaving, he issued the verbal order not to let the Sheikh and his son leave the fort, under any pretext, until his return. When he returned, he had them both put to death. Before this event, Sheikh-ibn-Ahmad and his son Ahmad-ibn-Sheikh, in concert with the Kilindini, had dispatched an army of Nyika to wage war in the old district of Mombasa, and the inhabitants of this place were killed and pillaged, because of their agreement with Governor Salih. However, the rumor of the wicked actions of Salih and his oppressive government reached the Imam, who had him replaced by Muhammad-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui (1); Salih returned to Oman. The new governor sent emissaries to Ahmad-ibn-Sheikh and the Kilindini who had taken refuge among the Nyika, urging them to return, in order to make peace with him and so that the country could return to order. Ahmad and his supporters indeed arrived, and, having made arrangements with the governor, he made them make peace with the other inhabitants of the country, and everything became quiet again. Then the Imam died in Oman, and Ahmad-ibn-Said al Bu-Saidi (2) managed to replace him as soon as the governor learned of the accession to power of the imam Ahmad-ibn-Said, who was not from the family of the imams, he declared himself head of Mombasa, without wanting to recognize the country as the possession of the Imam, saying: “Before, the Imam was my equal; he seized Oman, I seized Mombasa. » As soon as these words reached the Imam, he sent Saif-ibn-Khalaf al-Ma’miri, Saif-ibn-Naser, Saif-ibn-Said, Saif al Bitashi and Ma’an-ibn-Kulayb to Mombasa, in order to treasonably assassinate Muhammad-ibn-Uthman. On their arrival in Mombasa, they circumvented the governor and told him: “We have revolted against the Imam and

 

(1) Muhammad ibn Uthman al Mazrui: The Second Liwali; AH 1143 (1730) - AH 1157 (1744) declared independence from Uman after 1735.

(2) Ahmad-ibn-Said al Bu-Saidi: (R 1749-1783). As this sultan ruled after the dead of the second Liwali, some mistakes must have happened.

 

p620

we have come to you, desiring to be of your party, wanting what you will, according to your fortune; We ask that you give us some money to enable us to go to Kilwa and other points on the coast of Africa. The governor granted them what they asked for, and while he was preparing their journey, one day they entered his presence and treacherously killed him. They also seized his brother Ali-ibn-Uthman, Khalaf-ibn-Qadi and Abdullah-ibn-Khamis, all Mazara (=Mazrui), as well as Muhammad-ibn-Khamis al Afifi, and put them in prison. Then, masters of the government of Mombasa, they elected Saif-ibn-Khalaf as governor. But there were in the fort Habib-ibn-Rashid-ibn-Ali al Djiferi, al-Sherudi and Hamid ibn Abid al Baluchi, who were devoted to Ali ibn Uthman (1). These two individuals endeavored to facilitate the escape of the prisoners, and, having tied a long piece of raw leather going from the top of the fort to the bottom, they pulled them all down that way without the knowledge of the garrison. They were received by the sheikhs of the city, and those of Kilindini, Mishaf-ibn-Muallim al Haji, Mwinyi Nguti-ibn-Khamis-ibn-Miafe and Ahmad-ibn-Ndao, who took them to the Nyika, in the seaport of Mrera. The people of Mombasa were, at that time, from the party of Governor Saif-ibn-Khalaf. There was an English vessel in the port of Kilindini whose captain was called, by the natives, Mozungu-Kogu-Mkuu (2). He was friendly with Ali-ibn-Uthman and went to Mrera. He advised him to go to war and said: “If you are victorious, you will have achieved the goal of your desires; if not, I will take you and your suite on board, and take you to Bombay; then, next year, I will send you back with ships to wage war again on Saif-ibn-Khalaf and drive him from the fort. » The Englishman's advice was good, and he ordered them to build a ladder to the height of the fort, which was done. So the Nyika formed an army and entered Mombasa at night. They applied the ladder and all climbed up that way unexpectedly. They killed the soldiers

 

(1) Ali b. ‘Uthman: The Third Liwali (R 1745-1753)

(2) Mozungu =Swahili for whiteman; Kogu = Cook; Mkuu =Chief

 

P621

from the fort and forced Saif-ibn-Khalaf to take refuge in a large bastioned store located inside the fort; there he defended himself for three days, without anyone being able to seize him; after which the Englishman lowered a cannon from his ship, positioned it in front of the magazine, and began to fire until he had demolished one side of it. Then the governor cried for mercy and surrendered his arms; he was taken and beheaded, and Ali-ibn-Uthman recognized as governor. The wealth that was in the fort was distributed to the Mombasians, with the exception of weapons, powder and lead. Then the governor Ali-ibn-Uthman made a pact with the inhabitants by which he granted them various privileges, and he did the same with the Nyika. Then he prepared to go to war in Zanzibar. He went there, went down to the island, blocked the inhabitants in such a way that they had almost no room left. But Khalaf-ibn-Qadi was pushed by the devil to kill Governor Ali; he came near him unexpectedly and struck him with a dagger from which Ali died. Masud-ibn-Nasir (1) replaced him and brought the troops back to Mombasa, where he was named governor, a position he held until his death. The reign of Ali-ibn-Uthman was eight years, and that of Masud (1) twenty-four. After him, Abdullah-ibn-Muhammad-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui (2) came to power and remained there for eight years, until his death.

 

Ahmad-ibn-Muhammad-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui (3) succeeded him. His reign lasted thirty-four years. After him, they chose Abdullah-ibn-Ahmad-ibn-Muhammad-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui (4), who lived eight years in the exercise of power and died. He was replaced by Sulayman-ibn-Ali-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui (5), who is currently governor. God knows better than anyone what is right and reasonable. However, we have shortened this story to prune the length and the profusion of words. We pray to God to give us the best ending when we die. Amen.

And this copy was made on the 28th of Chaaban 1239. (1823-24AD)

 

Post Scriptum. When Shahat ibn Masham, died, there was no Shirazi sheikh after him. It was the sheikhs of Malindi who succeeded him: the first of these was Sultan Ahmad; the second, Sultan Muhammad;

 

(1) Masud-ibn-Nasir: forth liwali (1753-75)

(2) Abdullah b . Muhammad b . ' Uthman b . ' Abdullah Al - Mazruʻi: fifth Liwali  (1775-1783)

(3) Ahmad-ibn-Muhammad-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui: sixth liwali (1782-1814)

(4) Abdullah-ibn-Ahmad-ibn-Muhammad-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui: seventh liwali (1814-1823)

(5) Sulayman-ibn-Ali-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui: Eight liwali (1823- ??) In 1824 signed a protectorate with Owen which lasted 2 years.

 

p622

the third, Sultan Yusuf. He had been raised among the Portuguese; he ate pork like them, and generally ate all the foods usual to them. He began to reign on Saturday 7th of Moharram, at the 10th hour, in the year 1040 AH (August 23, 1630). When he had power in his hands, he governed very tyrannically; he forced the people to eat swine's flesh, and he was wicked and unfaithful. And he was dependent on the Sultan of Reinou (1); but there was a conflict of authority between them, and he revolted: so that the Sultan of Reinou marched against him and drove him from the citadel. Yusuf then fled to Yemen, and died in the port of Jeddah. After him, there were no more sultans, but only sheikhs. God knows best.

 

(1) Reinou: the Kingdom = Portugal.

Mombasa Chronicle (Swahili version).

---------------------------------------

Taken from: The Chronicle of Mombasa in Swahili: The Journal of the East African Swahili Committee 1964 Translation by DR. JAN KNAPPERT.

 

Note that only the first paragraph has some oral information about Medieval times.

 

P24

The Origin of Mombasa; people were living close to the shore in Kisauni (1). The people who were there were the Wagombeni (2), they are the Mombassans. People say that the Mombasans originate from Shiraz and had their Washenzi (3) called Watwa (4). They came with other people, they were originally called Wakilifi (5). These Wakilifi originated from the land of Likufi. Likufi is in the country of Mecca (6). They came with others called Wamutwaba (7). These originated from Taifu, which is on the same side of Mecca (6). These were the people who were there before in Mombasa.

One day the Watwa went out. They walked about and saw an elephant. They followed him until they arrived at Ras Serani (8) and saw the elephant falling. It was their custom to settle wherever they had beaten game. They ate until it was finished. Now, from that settlement where they lived they went out to wander about. They saw a rock and examined it closely. Inside it there were people. They returned to the town and sent word as follows: We settled here; there is a rock that contains people. The people (of the town) came out to look. The people saw each other and met.

 

P25

Those people (who lived in the rock) were Wazungu (=white people), Portuguese (9). They came, and settled with all their belongings. Those who had come were traders and lived in Mombasa for years. Finally and secretly soldiers arrived from Portugal they secretly filled up the Fort. There was a young man who worked (there), he even had the keys. He was told: on Sunday the gates of the Fort must be wide open. When the Sunday arrived they fought and many were killed. Some fled, there was a passage deep underneath leading to the shore, and so it happened that (the Portuguese) were all expelled from the town. The Sultan of Muscat now ruled and he was called Qaid el Ardhi (Commander of the Land). And they (the Portuguese) embarked and went home the very few (remaining), they never succeeded in coming back. In the Fort Jumadari Shuta (10) was appointed Commander, to act as Governor. He stayed for three years after which he asked for leave and returned to Muscat. They brought in seven people all with the same name: they were called Sefu (11). After they had left an Arab was sent who stayed for one year, after which he wanted leave and said to the Sultan: I will return to Muscat but there is my son, he can do this work, his name is Mohamadi bin Athumani (12). He was granted leave and Mohamadi bin Athumani became Governor in the Fort. He stayed (ruled) there in a very good manner and sent out many orders for a period of seven years. After which he died and his brother Ali bin Athumani ruled (13). He lived there for 13 years after which he died. After that Masuudi bin Nasiri (14) ruled as Governor in the Fort for a period of 25 years. When he had died, Abudallah bin Muhamadi (15) was appointed (and ruled) for six years. When he had died Hemedi bin Muhamadi (16) was appointed Governor in the Fort. Afterwards there were intrigues against him with the Sultan of Muscat and they (the intriguers) sent Arabs. He (their leader) came and devised a stratagem, telling him: Write a document (to the effect that) these towns belong to Said bin Surutani (17). If you are not agreeable, I will kill you. (He said this) while he was alone with him. And he wrote, after which the Arab travelled straight back to Muscat. The King had died, when the Arabs were in their town without meeting each other. Then the buildings were destroyed and so it came that that place was called the Old Town. Then they settled together with them, that is with those who were in the Fort, and they had power, their ships came and returned and they became rulers over them. So they stayed in this conditions until the town was full of people, i.e. the Old Town and Kafani.

 

P26

The Old Town is on the North side and Kafani is on the South side (of Mombasa Island). Initially they lived with them well and nicely. Afterwards it changed and they harassed them very much. If a stranger required to go on a journey of six days, it was necessary that he be transported by litter by noble youths. Later even noble girls were required. Those youngsters were to carry water into the Fort and many evil things were demanded of them. The Mombassans deliberated: Would it be better if we went and fetched another from Muscat? And (some) persons went from Mombasa with their secretaries to Muscat. When they arrived they asked for the Sultan and reported to him about all the affairs of Mombasa. The Sultan was enraged and wanted to wage war at once, but there was an old Baluchi (18) a very high office, he said to the Sultan: I will give you very good advice: the Sultan said: Come, give it. And he said to him: The best thing is that I go myself for these matters, I will go pretending to trade, selling and buying and so I shall know their affairs; also, I shall know all their ways, good and bad; finally it will be easy to beat them. The Sultan accepted that advice. And Commander Shuta (10) came and they saw that the Prince was not satisfactory, he had no good brains. So they were in favour of Imam Ahamadi (36) becoming Sultan (of Oman). And they all voted for him to become Sultan. So the Swahilis for one year sent their accounts until Hemedi bin Muhamadi (16) died. In the Fort was Selemani bin Ali (19). Finally he was removed. Abudallah bin Hemedi (20) ruled then and refused to send accounts to Muscat, saying: I am Sultan over my town, the Imam has died. And Saidi bin Surutani (17) had assumed the reign, Abudallah sent a letter to Saidi: If you can, come and take it yourself. Saidi felt this as a grave insult. Abudallah bin Hemedi (20) sent his brothers Salimu and Mbaruku bin Hemedi out to go and battle in Pemba. They fought, were defeated and returned. Later they went there another time. Shortly after Abudallah bin Hemedi died and they came back without having fought a battle. Salimu bin Hemedi (21) ruled then. Said bin Surutani (17) waged war, they fought, won and returned. Later they brought war again and won. After that the Mazuruwi (=Mazrui) went to Mauritius and took it. They appointed a stranger lest Said brought another war (upon them) and he stayed (there). Then he accused the stranger and he was removed. They waged war again, battled and were defeated: they came back, brought war again, won, and took the Fort (for) Said bin Surutani (17). Then the Mazuruwi invented a ruse, they fought again and returned victoriously in the Fort. Saidi was ousted,

 

p27

but they started another war, were defeated and had to go back. Salimu died and Mbaruku bin Hemedi died. Khamisi bin Hemedi then ruled in the Fort. He was a very wicked man who committed mischief, so that he made the people to united. The people felt they were in great trouble. They held counsel and went to Muscat. They took Said bin Surutani with them (back) got hold of Khamisi bin Hemedi in the Fort and chased him out. Rashidi bin Salimu (22) was then appointed Governor of the Fort. When they brought Said bin Surutani, Rashidi bin Salimu was already in the Fort. They brought him and he passed on the road thereto from behind (with) the Indian Almond Tree in front. At the same time that he descended (into town) others descended along Makupa (23), others reached the town by every road. Then the (different groups of) men made contact and encircled (the Fort) from all sides. They battled here and there and (the people in the Fort) were defeated. The Fort was taken by Said bin Surutani and the Mazuruwi were all expelled. Finally Saidi bin Surutani gave the post of Sheikh to three men: an Arab, a Swahili and a Mukilindini (24) , and they were given a testimonial for all time. They were given even his flag that must stand up until today. When he had finished Saidi left Muscat, and came to settle in Zanzibar. After having taken the Fort, Saidi bin Surutani sent his son called Saidi Hadidi (25) and ordered him to take the Mazuruwi prisoners. Those who were in Mombasa all fled, some went to Takaungu (26), some to Gasi (27). When Saidi Hadidi arrived he settled in the Fort and sent out men to call (the Mazuruwi) one after the other. When they came and passed into the Fort they were locked in shackles. 25 people were locked up, loaded on a ship and sent to India, and lived there. In the Fort Said appointed a Baluchi Commander and an Arab Governor. Saidi bin Surutani died in Zanzibar and his son Saidi Majidi (28) ascended the throne in Zanzibar. Every person who did injustice was vanquished by him. No one waged war against him whom he did not overcome. When he died his brother Saidi Baraghashi (29) reigned. When he died Saidi Khalifa (30) reigned. He too died and Saidi Ali reigned (31), and died. Then their brother Muhamadi Thuweni (32) reigned, he was born in Muscat. When he died their son Said Hamudu (33) reigned. When he died his son Saidi Ali bin Hamudu (34) reigned. Saidi Ali abdicated and his friend ruled, Saidi Khalifa (35). Thus is this history about them ended, just so I have heard it.

 

(1) Kisauni: Kisa’un id 4km north of Mombasa.

(2) Wagombeni: Gombeni means where the cows are. It is still a family name in Mombasa and several places in the Swahili speaking countries are called Gombeni.

(3) Washenzi: has a bad meaning: being from the bush.

(4)Watwa: according to H. E. LAMBERT the Watwa were the autochthonous people, apparently of a Pygmy or Bushman type. They were hunters and collectors who roamed the coast lands and collaborated with the Swahili, supplying them with trophies of the hunt, particularly ivory, in return for some degree of protection, grain foods and trinkets of various sorts.

(5) Wakilifi: historical Swahili town 40 km north of Mombasa.

(6) in the country of Mecca: Many Swahili people during the Omani domination gave themselves Arab roots.

(7) according to H. E. LAMBERT the Wamutwaba were the Wamtwapa, one of the Nine Tribes (of Mombasa). Mtwapa is also the name of a historical Swahili town 15 km north of Mombasa and also the name of the neighbouring creek.

(8) Ras Serani is on the south eastern corner of Mombasa Island.

(9) Portuguese: the Swahili text has Wareno which means of the kingdom =Portugal.

(10) Jumadari Shuta is according to H. E. LAMBERT undoubtedly Jemadari Chota Zindigali, the Baluchi Commander.

(11) Sefu: according to H. E. LAMBERT: In this context appears to be rank or title (Military Governor) rather than a personal name.

(12) Mohamadi bin Athumani: Muhammad ibn Uthman al Mazrui: The Second Liwali; AH 1143 (1730) - AH 1157 (1744) declared independence from Uman after 1735. The first Liwali was Nasir-ibn-Abdullah al Mazrui: He must have arrived in Mombasa around AH 1110 (AD 1698).

(13) Ali bin Athumani: Ali b. ‘Uthman: The Third Liwali (R 1745-1753)

(14) Masuudi bin Nasiri: Masud-ibn-Nasir: forth liwali (1753-75)

(15) Abudallah bin Muhamadi: Abdullah b. Muhammad b. Uthman b. Abdullah Al-Mazruʻi: fifth Liwali  (1775-1783).

(16) Hemedi bin Muhamadi: Ahmad-ibn-Muhammad-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui: sixth liwali (1782-1814).

(17) Said bin Surutani: al-Sayyid Said ibn Sultan al-Bu-Saidi: Sayyid Said bin Sultan al-Busaidi; (5 June 1791 – 19 October 1856), was Sultan of Muscat and Oman, the fifth ruler of the Busaid dynasty from 1804 to 4 June 1856. He is noted for having moved his capital to Zanzibar, during which time the Omani Empire reached the zenith of its power and wealth.

(18) Baluchi: From Sind in Pakistan. The coast of Baluchistan was colonized by Oman and they used to recruit their solders there.

(19) Selemani bin Ali: Sulayman-ibn-Ali-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui: Eight liwali (1823- 1825) In 1824 signed a protectorate with Owen which lasted 2 years.

(20) Abudallah bin Hemedi: Abdullah-ibn-Ahmad-ibn-Muhammad-ibn-Uthman al Mazrui: seventh liwali (1814-1823)

(21) Salimu bin Hemedi: The Ninth Liwali Salim b. Ahmad b. Muhammad b. ‘Uthman (R1825-1835) is the brother of the previous liwali and the first one not to appear in the list of Liwali (=governors) of Mombasa in the Mombasa Chronicle as the writer of that chronicle ended his story before Salim took power.

(22) Rashidi bin Salimu: The Tenth Liwali Rashid ibn Salim b. Ahmad b. Muhammad b. ‘Uthman (R1836-1837) son of Salim the previous Liwali.

(23) Makupa: on the north side of Mombasa Island. It is the place from where one can cross on foot to the mainland.

(24) Mukilindini; Person from Kilindini. Kilindini is the mainland coast on the west side of Mombasa Island.

(25) Saidi Hadidi: Called Halid ibn Said in the Mombasa Chronicle.

(26) Takaungu is a historic Swahili town located on the Kenyan Coast between Mombasa and Malindi, in Kilifi County. It is 10 km south of the town of Kilifi.

(27) Gasi: Gazi 10 km north of Makongeni in Kwale County, in Kenya's South Coast.

(28) Saidi Majidi: Magid ibn Said had become sultan of Zanzibar in 1273AH= 1856AD. According to Lyne (Zanzibar in contemporary times, p. 293), he died in October 1870AD, which would put Majid's death in A.H.1287.

(29) Saidi Baraghashi: Sayyid Barghash (=Bargas) bin Said al-Busaidi, (1836 – 26 March 1888) was an Omani Sultan and the son of Said bin Sultan, he was the second Sultan of Zanzibar. Barghash ruled Zanzibar from 7 October 1870 to 26 March 1888. He succeeded his elder half-brother Majid in 1871, having openly and adamantly contested his rule and at one point was arrested for treason and exiled to India and Bombay.

(30) Saidi Khalifa: Sayyid Khalifa I bin Said Al-Busaid (R26–03–1888 to 13–02–1890).

(31) Saidi Ali: Sayyid Ali bin Said Al-Busaid (R13-02–1890 to 5–03–1893).

(32) Muhamadi Thuweni: Sayyid Hamad bin Thuwaini Al-Busaid (R5–03–1893 to 25-08 -1896).

(33) Said Hamudu: Sayyid Hamoud bin Mohammed Al-Said (R27–08–1896 to 18–07–1902).

(34) Saidi Ali bin Hamudu: Sayyid Ali bin Hamud Al-Busaid (R20-07-1902 to 9-12-1911).

(35) Saidi Khalifa: Sayyid Khalifa II bin Harub Al-Said (R9-12-1911 to 9-10-1960).

(36) Imam Ahamadi: Ahmad-ibn-Said al Bu-Saidi: (R 1749-1783). As this sultan ruled after the dead of the second Liwali, some mistakes must have happened.